There were rocks in the dorm…
… Lots of them, all shapes and sizes in a messy corner inhabited by two young Geology students, one ginger, the other one not. We were in an area of special scientific interest, a Geo Park no less. It was also of special interest to me as John Lennon spent childhood holidays here and his happy memories had filtered through into one of my favourite Beatles tunes, In My Life. I know that, firstly, because my good friend Peter Mac told me before I headed out on my trip and, secondly, as there was a small, humble memorial garden created for Lennon by the community centre up on a hill close by to where I was staying. Wonderfully understated and British. We are after all, a nation of shopkeepers and gardeners…
I had checked into the hostel at Durness, the most North Westerly inhabited village on the mainland, after being dropped off by Rupacheeta and, for once, I had booked in advance. It was very remote and there were not too many alternatives. I liked the fact that the name Durness was like an edited purer version of my starting point ‘Dungeness’, both very different and at the opposite ends of the British Isles, but both very striking and beautiful in a rugged kind of way.
The hostel itself was basic but cosy. What looked like two corrugated iron sheds on first inspection, one red, one blue. The reception, kitchen and lounge were in one hut, the dorms in the other. This rural outpost overlooking the North Atlantic was managed by Mary Anne, a refugee from Islington with rosy cheeks and a mischievous giggle, a welcoming host who made the huts feel very homely. You had a sense of past times, travellers finding shelter from the howling wind by a cosy fire. Tales of adventure and lashings of cocoa, and, as ever, the smell of sweaty, soiled socks.
I had wandered out after checking in; looking for food, hoping for a stale pie or a portion of chips at best. It was a bit of a walk into Durness proper and it started raining but I could see a light up ahead and was hoping for a store that was still open. There was, but further on up the road was another light, which looked like it belonged to a hotel but turned out to be the Sango Oasis Pub. It was full, jam-packed with drinkers in the lounge watching Uruguay v Holland on a big flat screen. They also served food in take-away cartons. No need for plates and niceties here and my lack of table manners served me well for once. The locals seemed a friendly bunch, and I also heard quite a few foreign accents as the bar was right by a camp site on a cliff-edge full of caravans and sturdy tents pitched by hardy souls. Holland beat Uruguay which suited everyone, I wondered what would have transpired if England were still in the competition at this point – wishful thinking perhaps, but also a relief in some ways, I had assumed I would probably be the only Englishman up here at this time – wrongly as it turned out.
My plan to get out to Cape Wrath the following morning was scuppered due to high winds. You had to walk/hitch to a ferry then hop on a minibus unless you were a hardened biker and could go the long way round adding another 20 miles or so onto your journey. Even then there were hurdles, as this hunk of land sticking out into the Atlantic, is owned by the Ministry of Defence and they use it to play war games; testing bombs, firing bullets and scaring baby bunnies. Obviously this limited access at certain times of the year. Funny how I started at a nuclear power station and aimed to finish at a firing range…
I wasn’t that bothered, I liked the remoteness of Durness, which came without any bleakness and had a whole extra day to explore the local vicinity. Mary Anne suggested a circular walk out to the nearest headland then to loop back through the artistic community at Balnakeil. This appealed to me, it sounded really interesting and I could buy Rupa a cuppa to say thanks for the ride the previous day. I set off, there was a beautiful sandy beach less than half a mile from the hostel, with clear blue water and rocks tastefully scattered like a conceptual piece of art. No dead sharks though. I had it all to myself. It wasn’t cold, it was a bright blue day, it was just violently windy and sand whipped into my eyes. I felt like McLawrence of Arabia. Still, from what I could see, it was a world class beach, just in the wrong part of the world to attract any tourists. I felt absurdly happy, as if I alone had discovered this oasis of calm beauty – a special place unpolluted by deck chairs, stripey wind breaks and noisy ice cream vans.
Despite the dangerous conditions (earlier the wind had contrived to whack me over the head with my own iPod) I continued my walk up the road then headed off down a marked track past a field of sheep. They all stopped what they were doing (heads down, chewing) to stare at me nervously and I felt the need to reassure them. ‘I am not your enemy’, I proclaimed loudly, arms outstretched, ‘I mean you no harm, go about your business, friends’. One stared right back at me and bleated a nonchalant ‘Baa’. There was no comeback to that, I continued on my way.
I made it up to the headland and jumped down into a convenient look-out hole for shelter. An uplifting view embellished with great drama by the gale-force winds swirling around my head and invading my ear holes. It could have been a scene painted by Van Gogh in his later madder years. I was glad of that hollow. Snuggled down into it like a little lost lamb and shot a quick mpeg on my phone of the majestic panorama surrounding and engulfing me. Shot it upside down, then deleted it by accident.
I headed back down and considered crouching on all fours and impersonating a rugged mountain goat to prevent myself being blown away over the cliffs by the maelstrom, slicing into me menacingly – I felt like a reluctant kite, unwilling to take flight, safer on the ground. This was early July, summertime, when the living was supposed to be easy. I was at the mercy of the elements and found myself spouting – ‘Blow winds, rage and crack…’, King Lear said that – you can always rely on Shakespeare. To be honest, that was one of the only quotes I remembered from my youth, apart from maybe – ‘Hey Romeo, you nearly gave me a heart attack, hiding neath the window, hey now, your boyfriend’s back…’
I made it to Balnakeil, built by the MOD as an early warning station in the event of nuclear attack in the 50s, left abandoned then rescued from destruction in 1964 (my birth year) and renovated by a group of artists who lived and practised there, selling artefacts to visitors who sometimes came by the coachload. It consisted of 20 or so modest huts, soldiers’ barracks I think, each with its own small water tower. The concrete blocks were at odds with the beautiful surrounds but very much part of it – a unique craft village in the Cold War vernacular.
Rupa was covering for her artist friend, Ishbel MacDonald, I wanted to tell her about my groundless fear of the dark, damp hole the previous day. I found her hut but there was nobody home so I popped next door to a hut with reflective mosaic tiles stuck like crazy paving on the walls. There was an older lady spinning yarn, I just wandered in only to discover it was her front room in her own private home. Whoops. Her name was Noelle Bosa and although I had rudely interrupted her at work and broken into her lodgings, she smiled kindly and beckoned me in further. I felt like an time traveller, stumbling in on the past. We had a nice long chat, she had settled here years ago, up from England and mine was the first English accent she had heard in some time. She was like a character out of an old fairy tale, weaving her magic turning loose strands into rugs and jumpers on a wonderful old wooden loom. I thought I’d better let her get along with her work, bid her farewell and looked back after I closed the door; head down, totally engrossed in her work, a benign queen spider spinning her web, I envied her seemingly simple life but was sure there were a good few interesting and complicated tales in her life time.
I went back later but still no Rupa, a young woman was there, a daughter of another tenant recently returned from Manchester and she showed me around. Ishbel’s work was strong and expressive, I loved an original of crashing surf, a seabird gliding elegantly just above the waves, almost disappearing in the swell. You could almost feel the ocean spray against your skin. I resisted the temptation to dive in and buy it and opted for the postcard version instead, a bargain at £2.50.
I headed back to the hostel, the wind was so severe by this time that it blew my iPod tunes out of synch. I was listening to ‘Rubber Soul’, one of my favourite Beatles albums, and it jumped from tune to tune, governed entirely by the wind. Guess what song showed up at the exact point I passed the Lennon memorial. Yep, you guessed it, ‘In My Life’ – the end of a magical day.
That evening I headed back down the pub with Colin the Cyclist who I’d met that morning at breakfast. We had had a good long chat comparing stories and sharing travel trips. He was also heading to Cape Wrath, on a break from work and writing up his trip and contributing to simonseeks.com, a travel review website. He was earnest and thoughtful; good relaxed company, younger and fitter than me – admittedly no great achievement. The pub was packed again, with quite a few Geo students too from different universities who had been here for over six weeks on extended field trips. Our students were there, they were from Southampton and there was a bit of rivalry with their counterparts from Leeds, inevitably involving the mating game. The pub was also split between Spanish and German supporters who did their best to maintain national stereotypes. I shall say no more…
I stopped off to get web access on the way back from the pub – literally a tiny self-contained room in someone’s house. I felt like I was intruding for the second time that day, but I popped my money in the slot and got typing, I only had enough for 30 minutes and whipped up ‘Death by iPod’ quickly which I posted tipsily and subsequently deleted. Two pints is enough for me these days to get all giggly.
How my 20 year old self would have despised the mid 40s version of himself! And what would I have said to the younger Andy? Drink less. Save more. Don’t take that job at the Nationwide Building Society. Don’t be too fussy on the love front. Stop combing your hair back – the Home Counties Michael Jackson look (Off the Wall era) is just not working. Your mother is right – study for a degree, you’ll actually enjoy it. Eat more fruit.
When I left it was after 11pm but still quite light. I felt exuberant. It had been a great day. Perhaps simple pleasures don’t make a great story; but the beach was special (one of three in Durness, all gorgeous), the walk was bracing, life-affirming even and Balnakeil was very inspiring. The next day, Colin and I would try and get over to Cape Wrath again. The wind would decide whether we would make it or not.